When Orange Lingerie announced the release of a new bra pattern, The Fenway Bra, I knew I had to drop everything and get it made! This post describes the process as well as my thoughts on the first frameless bra I’ve made.
While the Tigers and Red Sox battled it out in Detroit this weekend, I celebrated by making the new Fenway Bra by Orange Lingerie. I’ve made her other bra patterns (read more about those here) and loved the outcome. New to this lineup is the Fenway Bra, which brings together a different cup design and a more relaxed vibe. Similar to other Orange Lingerie patterns, this one is well designed, and the instructions & pictures are concise, yet easy to follow. I made the same size I take in her other patterns and found the fit to be great. The cup shape is different, and depending on the materials used in the upper cup, you may want to go up a size. I highly suggest making a toile of this pattern, especially if you are new to bra making.
As always, I start with assembling my supplies and cutting out the pattern. I use a small rotary cutter for this purpose as it gives me an accurate cut, especially with some of the intricate pieces. I also opted to fuse a lining onto the silk charmeuse to give it more stability and used the same lining material for the upper cup. When I make this pattern again, I will probably select a more stable shear material to give the upper cup some added support.
The cups get sewn together first, and I took the time to mark these pieces carefully and laid them out. I find it’s easier to map out the full bra out first, so you have the “big picture” plan for the construction process as you read through the directions. Also, remember to press your cups on a ham as you go and make sure to take the time to do the top stitching. Quality lingerie making is all in the details so take you time and enjoy each step.
Adding the upper cup and the fold-over-elastic (FOE) is next. The cup is curvier than other bra patterns I’ve made, so lots of pins and slow & accurate sewing get these together. Similarly, the FOE takes some practice, but I found the result well worth it. I love having this additional option to standard picot elastic for lingerie!
With the cups constructed, they now get sewn to the bridge and frame/band pieces. While this will look a bit different than her other bra patterns since this is essentially a “frameless” bra, the concept is the same. The markings you transferred from the original pattern pieces will be a huge help in this step.
This bra is starting to look like a bra! Now we add the underwire channeling and remaining FOE. These steps are a little challenging so read & follow the directions carefully and sew slowly. And finally, the hook & eye closure can be added. I use a tiny zigzag for this process and find this to be both sturdy and stylish.
The only thing left to do now is to sit back and admire your work, and of course, take in a baseball game in your new Fenway Bra! What about you- have you made the Fenway Bra yet? What do you think of this new pattern and the construction of a frameless bra?